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You have questions.  I have answers.

1. How much are you asking for the vehicle?

2. Where is the vehicle located?

3. What is a Porsche "951" and why can't I find many references to it anywhere?

4. Is the vehicle in good, fair, or poor condition?

5. How has the Autothority chip affected fuel economy and performance?

6. Does the aftermarket stereo take up the whole trunk, and is it plainly visible from outside the car?

7. Will you sell the car without all of the stereo gear?

8. Are these genuine Porsche wheels or replicas?

9. Who performs the maintenance on the vehicle?

10. Is the car due for any maintenance service?

11. What parts have you replaced recently?

12. Why are you selling the vehicle?

13. Is there anything wrong with vehicle?

14. Why should I buy a 944 Turbo over a regular 944? What's the difference?

15. Why should I pay more to buy your vehicle when I can find others for less money?

16. Why have you built such a big website to sell your vehicle? Are you a dealer?

17. Who do I contact for more information about the vehicle?


1. How much are you asking for the vehicle?
NOTE: This vehicle has been SOLD. Thank you for your interest! Back to top

2. Where is the vehicle located?
The vehicle is in Austin, Texas. Buyer assumes all responsibility for pick-up or shipping, although I may be willing to deliver the vehicle to buyers within a reasonable distance. Back to top

3. What is a Porsche "951" and why can't I find many references to it anywhere?
"951" is simply Porsche's internal product designation for the (left-hand drive) 944 Turbo model. While this car was conventionally known as a "Porsche 944 Turbo" to everyone else, many 944 Turbo owners and enthusiasts often refer to this car by its internal product code to avoid confusion with other 944 variants. Back to top

4. Is the vehicle in good, fair, or poor condition?
The gallery images should speak for themselves. This car is in good mechanical and cosmetic condition. The interior has worn well over the years - no gashes or tears in the leather seats (no pets and no smoking either), although the leather shift knob is visibly worn. The paint is still quite glossy, and there are minimal rock chips or scratches (though a few minor driveway scrapes are visible from underneath the chin spoiler). I have always hand-washed and hand-waxed the car, with a few occasional trips to the brushless automatic car wash for quick touch-ups. The body is practically perfect - no dents except one tiny ding on the passenger-side door. The engine compartment is fair and the undercarriage is in good condition. There is not a hint of rust anywhere. The car has been covered or garaged for most of its life, and looks as good as the pictures indicate. Back to top

5. How has the Autothority chip affected fuel economy and performance?
I have not seen any improvement or decrease in fuel mileage, but the engine chip has made a world of difference in acceleration, throttle response, and around-town drivability. The idle is smoother and there is more power available throughout the rev range. Back to top

6. Does the aftermarket stereo take up the whole trunk, and is it plainly visible from outside the car?
My objective with the stereo was to keep it all hidden (to prevent theft) and make things look OEM or blend in with the interior as much as possible. The Alpine 7982 (3-disc in-dash changer) is mounted in the factory head-unit location, with the storage compartment beneath the DIN-slot still intact. The Alpine 6-disc changer is mounted within the glove box for several reasons: it provides easy access from the driver's seat, it's ventilated, you can lock it for additional security, and you don't even need the extension cable for the power/signal line to the head unit.

The Boston Acoustic speakers are in the factory locations behind the original grills (so they are obscured from view). The two JL Audio 10-W6 subwoofers are housed in a sealed enclosure right behind the back seat. The box is low and long and well suited to the W6 speakers, which are extremely efficient and have very low airspace requirements. As I didn't want the sub enclosure to obscure my rear view over back seat, the box is still a good 4 inches below the top of the seat.

Connected to the enclosure (further behind the back seat, and the first thing you see if you are looking into the trunk space) is the amplifier rack. The rack is also completely enclosed but there is some ventilation through the lid (I drove from VA to TX and had the stereo cranking for 8-9 hours at a time, and even though the amps got warm, they've never cut out). The rack holds an MTX RTX-02 crossover, an MTX ThunderPro 2160 amp (231 continuous Watts x 2) for the sub, and an Alpine MRV-F300 V12 amp (50 continuous Watts x 4) for the satellite speakers. The lid of the amp rack/box is screwed down and the heads of the screws are hidden. Both the sub enclosure and amp rack are carpeted in black to match interior. With the 5% tint on the rear hatch glass (only letting 5% of the light through), the stereo equipment is practically invisible other than the tell-tale white "JL" logos which you have to look hard for. Hopefully the alarm system and tinted windows are enough of a theft deterrent.
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7. Will you sell the car without all of the stereo gear?
For those that value trunk space over audio quality, or are looking to save some money on the price of the car, I am willing to remove the amplifiers, subwoofers, crossover, rack, and enclosure from behind the back seats, but leave all of the Boston Acoustic speakers in place (behind the factory grill locations). Because the head unit/receiver does not have a built-in amplifier and only uses RCA pre-outs, it would be useless without a separate amplifier and can be replaced with any reasonably priced stereo head-unit of your choosing. I will go ahead and buy the receiver you have selected and pay to have it installed in the car before you come to pick it up. Then you would still have a nice aftermarket stereo of your choice combined with great speakers, and you'll have all of your trunk space available again. We would of course subtract a negotiated amount from the asking price of the car, as it will no longer include the entire stereo system anymore. Back to top

8. Are these genuine Porsche wheels or replicas?
These are high-quality replica wheels manufactured by Borbet. They feature similar design and construction as genuine factory wheels, at a more affordable price. I have not had any problems with the wheels being soft or bending (which is one of the risks when using low-quality replica wheels), nor is there any noticeable difference in the color or finish of the wheels. Combined with genuine painted Porsche center caps, most people won't know the difference either. What will stand out is the more aggressive "Plus 1" fitment of 17" wheels with staggered arrangement (rear wheels are 1.5" wider than fronts), in a more modern design than what the car was originally equipped with (16" "Telephone dial" wheels). Back to top

9. Who performs the maintenance on the vehicle?
I handle minor things like oil/filter changes, switch/sensor/bulb replacements, and other easy repairs myself (with the assistance of my skilled and patient father - Thanks Dad!). I prefer to let the big boys (Autothority and more recently, Auto Sportsystems Group) do the major work, like water pump and strut replacements, etc. Most major repairs and maintenance activities have been performed by my trusted mechanics, who are more than qualified to work on my car. I have been going to see the guys at Auto Sportsystems Group for years and they have pampered my Porsches and BMWs. They are well-known among Porsche circles as excellent race tuners and are currently campaigning several Porsches in the World Challenge series. They also happen to work on a few lowly BMW's and Audi's in between their more competitive efforts. If you would like to speak with my mechanics about the quality of care I have lavished on my car, contact me and I will tell you who to talk to over there. Back to top

10. Is the car due for any maintenance service?
No, the car has had two major services since I've owned the car (approximately every 13,000 miles). Most recently, I had a 60,000-mile major service performed, which included bleeding/replacing all fluids, an alignment, and a 70-MPH tire balance. I've only used Mobil 1 15W-50 synthetic oil and Exxon Supreme gasoline. Transmission fluid is also synthetic Mobil 1.Back to top

11. What parts have you replaced recently?
Here is a quick list of some of the items that I have replaced (or installed) recently:
  • Fuel filler hose/neck assembly (I smelled fuel, identified leak, replaced parts, and eliminated fumes.)
  • Battery (I replaced the sealed/maintenance-free unit and now have a higher-rated, conventional battery.)
  • Power steering reservoir and updated hose (PS hose was leaking, so I replaced the hose with an updated design that avoids the water pump. I also replaced the PS reservoir because it has a built in filter than cannot be changed separately--just a good maintenance measure.)
  • Right front control arm (The joint boot didn't seal properly because power steering fluid had leaked all over it--see above. The joint was getting worn, so I replaced it with rebuilt Zims unit that features a greasable joint to allow for regular maintenance.)
  • Voltmeter bulb
  • Power door lock actuators (Both failed at different times within a year of each other--driver's side first. The motors were fine, but the weak plastic arms had snapped in each case. I had new arms installed when the alarm installed.)
  • Motor mounts (Replaced at 45,000 miles.)
  • Clutch/brake slave cylinder (Replaced at 40,000 miles because the pedal stuck to the floor.)
Here are the parts that have already been replaced once throughout lifetime of car (by previous owner):
  • Clutch
  • Timing belt (at 40,000 miles)
  • Water pump
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12. Why are you selling the vehicle?
I want to sell the car because I want a 199X BMW 535i or 525i. I need more space and something that I don't have to worry about as much when I move later this year and will be parking in downtown Atlanta. I actually hate to sell the car, but I know I won't be able to stretch its legs and enjoy it as much in the city (compared to Texas' expansive highways and scenic curves in beautiful "hill country"). The potholes suck in Atlanta and the car deserves a nice home to live the rest of its life (which will be a long time considering it only has 65K miles). Plus I need to give my left leg a break! Back to top

13. Is there anything wrong with vehicle?
Yes, it has a few minor problems or quirks:

The leather on the shift knob is worn, and instead of replacing the entire leather boot cover, the previous owner addressed the eyesore by trimming off the worn portion of the shifter cover and folding it over on itself at the "neck" so that the edge is tucked and replaced by what looks like a natural seam. Your hand rests on bare plastic when shifting, but it looks convincing and never bothered me enough to buy another shifter cover.

The air conditioning switch refuses to stay engaged in the "ON" (depressed) position. I temporarily solved this problem by wedging a tiny sewing pin between the switch button and its surrounding bezel. The pin is very small (practically invisible), and is just thick enough to occupy the gap necessary for holding the switch in whatever position you choose. It's also a lot cheaper than a new switch and it operates very efficiently in practice.

The windshield washer jets are not reliable. This is because I never use them. I wash the car so often that my windshield never gets that dirty. At every major service, my mechanics clean or unclog the jets and make them work again. But after a few months only one side will work again.

The digital clock display does not function anymore. The liquid crystal leaked (within the sandwiched layers of the display) one day when parked in the sun and the whole screen is now one solid color. I just use the clock on my stereo now.

There is a small chip in the windshield that a truck gave me while driving through Waco, TX. It hasn't grown in months, so I think it's safe to say it will stay just a small chip and not expand into a huge crack.

Paint is not all original. Here are the reasons:

1) The previous owner had the nose and hood re-sprayed to remove some rock chips. Unfortunately the masking job was poor. The paint matches perfectly but a little overspray got on the black plastic headlight bucket covers. I could have had it fixed, but it never bothered me too much (only visible at night when the lights in the raised position) and it's not too extensive anyway. The sound/heat insulation material on the underside of the hood is also an eyesore, as it didn't adhere well to the new paint and some of the aged foam has since crumbled off.

2) When the "road guard" material (the thicker, textured part of the car paint on the rocker panels under the doors) got too many rock chips near the rear fenders, I had that whole bottom part of the car re-sprayed with new road guard protection and then repainted. It's a good match, and the paint only covers the road guarded part, so the transition occurs naturally where the paint texture changes anyway. At the same time I also had other parts of the car repainted. The rear valance was done because it was also in the same region as the road guard and I believed it should match the paint around it. In addition, I had an area of the rear bumper repainted because someone had parked their car too close to mine. There were 2 tiny chips in the paint on the bumper from their license plate screws and they bothered me so I had the whole thing fixed at the same time.
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14. Why should I buy a 944 Turbo over a regular 944? What's the difference?
First, make sure you realize that the car for sale is a 944 Turbo and not just a 944, 944S, or 944S2. "Regular" 944's are plentiful and are powered by a normally aspirated, 2.5-liter, in-line 4-cylinder engine. This engine features twin counter-rotating balance shafts that spin at 4 times the crank speed to smooth out the inherent vibrations associated with large 4-cylinder engines. 5-speed manual transmissions were standard but some automatics were available (read: slow!). Peak power for the North American market ranged from 143 hp to 160 hp. Torque also fell within similar figures (150-160 lb-ft). 0-60 MPH elapsed in around 7.5 seconds (depending on the source/tester), and top speed was 134 MPH. Due to careful engineering and a rear-mounted transaxle, the car featured a perfect 50/50 weight distribution. Car and Driver magazine named the Porsche 944 the "Best Handling Production Car in America" in the 1980's.

The 944 Turbo employs a turbocharged and intercooled version of the base 944's 2.5-liter 4-banger, but compression is reduced (8.0:1) to compensate for the turbo's already pressurized intake air. This engine also features a built-in knock sensor for added insurance. The turbocharger itself is a KKK K-26 unit, and to this day, the 944 Turbo is considered to have one of the most advanced and reliable turbocharged systems on the road. The engine will not be supplied with fuel (when cranking) until sufficient oil pressure has developed to protect the turbocharger. When the car is shut off, an auxiliary waterpump continues to cycle coolant through the turbo until it has sufficiently cooled down, prolonging turbo life even further. The separate intercooler is relatively large even by today's standards, and works efficiently to reduce intake temperatures prior to combustion. Featuring advanced electronic turbo/boost management, the DME can limit boost to 1.2 bar if engine knock or ping is detected. The fact that the computer controls so much of the engine's functioning creates a perfect opportunity to substitute more aggressive engine mapping (like my Autothority chip software) which can take advantage of higher octane premium fuel, higher boost levels, faster spooling, and increased redline RPM. But even stock, the 944 Turbo's engine was a formidable powerplant. In Le Mans races during the 1980's, a variant of this motor raced head to head against cars with engines boasting twice its size. As a testament to the engine's reliability, it spent the least amount of time in the pits throughout the entire 24-hour race. The Porsche 944 Turbo made Car and Driver magazine's "Ten Best" list in 1986, and also earned the honor of being the fastest car tested that year, topping out at 157 MPH.

The 944 Turbo differs from the base 944 in many other respects besides the engine. The transmission has hardened 1st and 2nd gears, and the whole gearset is different to accommodate the additional output and respective changes to the car's power curve. A firmer suspension, (lighter and larger) plastic fuel tank, and huge brakes complete the package. The ventilated rotors are almost a foot in diameter, and 4-piston calipers are used at each corner. The 944 Turbo has a coefficient of drag of .32, which may be attributed to some of the more aggressive and efficient bodywork. All 944 Turbo's have valances under the rear bumper, and the front of the car is completely different from the base 944's. The nose is molded over the bumper shocks, forming a smooth, clean fascia with integrated foglights and separate ventilation for the radiator, intercooler, and brakes. Side skirts also complement the aerodynamic package, as does a flush windshield that houses a built-in wire antenna for the radio. When introduced, the 944 Turbo was the fastest production Porsche until 1989, when the new 911 turbo appeared. It was also produced in relatively limited numbers, much fewer than the normal 944's that are more commonly available today, so it enjoys more exclusivity.
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15. Why should I pay more to buy your vehicle when I can find others for less money?
Consider the current market of older, abused, high-mileage 944's and my vehicle stands out. It is in good shape and looks more like a new vehicle than one built in 1986. The body, paint, and trim are all in great condition. The air conditioning is cold, the aftermarket stereo sounds great, and most of the accessories work flawlessly (save for the pesky A/C button and LCD clock). The leather interior has survived well over the years, and has seen little passenger traffic. The mechanicals have been maintained by the best independent mechanics in the business, and many of the big-ticket items have already been replaced. I have also upgraded the wheels and stereo, making the car more pleasurable to drive. It is ready for many more years of enjoyment and needs very little. I constantly receive compliments on my car and people cannot believe how well it looks and runs at such age and mileage. This is not a garage queen, and it has served me well as a driver for 3.5 years. It was spec'd at the factory as a driver's car, and deserves to be driven and appreciated by another Porsche enthusiast.

If you are looking for "just another" 944 at an affordable price, then you may find a more suitable vehicle elsewhere. If you are looking for a great example of one of Porsche's finest (but under-appreciated) vehicles with extra performance goodies, then this is the right vehicle for you. If you're looking for a solid platform to modify further or go club racing, then this car makes a perfect candidate for you too.
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16. Why have you built such a big website to sell your vehicle? Are you a dealer?
No, I am a private owner who just happens to care a lot about my vehicle. I have been an active Porsche Club of America (PCA) member, have owned two 944's, and am a true enthusiast. Hopefully this website will help justify my asking price by showing potential buyers that I have been a very meticulous owner. I want to arm the buyer with as much information as possible up front to avoid any possible disappointment because the car wasn't what the buyer expected. I would hate for someone to fly to Texas and leave empty handed because I wasn't honest about some of the car's flaws. This site is intended to prevent any such misrepresentation. Back to top

17. Who do I contact for more information about the vehicle?
You can contact me, Ben Trapp (the owner) for any additional questions. Please view my Contact page to see how you may reach me. Back to top